Fulcrum 2008 Gap's Crown Pinot Noir

95 POINTS

Big and powerful, but nuanced despite its size. It's a dark, extracted wine, filled with wild cherry, raspberry, currant and sandalwood flavors, as well as exotic notes of forest balsam, grilled mushrooms, tamari and dusty Indian spices. Super-complex, it changes with every sip, and should change interestingly over the next six years. The vineyard is in the Petaluma Gap, and argues strongly for that region's future. -S.H.